Humidity, answered plainly.

The EPA suggests keeping indoor relative humidity below 60 percent, and ideally between 30 and 50 percent. A Charleston house that sits above that for days at a time is worth measuring.

It is the temperature at which the air in a room begins leaving water on a surface. A window, a duct or a cold wall that is colder than the dew point will sweat. Knowing it tells us which surfaces to look at and how much drying the house needs.

Usually not. An oversized system cools the air quickly and shuts off before it has removed much moisture. We time your cooling cycles before suggesting any change.

For one room or a closet, often yes. For a whole house, or the air under it, a portable unit runs constantly and still leaves the rest damp. The readings show which case you have.

Not always. We read it first. If the air under the floor is damp and the vents are letting more in than a dehumidifier could remove, closing it in is the first step. We tell you what we found either way.

No. It lowers humidity so conditions are less friendly to mold, but it doesn't remove mold that is already growing. If you can see mold, ask a mold professional to look at it; we are not mold remediators.

The visit fee is quoted when you book, in writing. If you hire us for equipment, the fee is credited toward the work. See how pricing works for what a written scope contains.

Call a water-damage company first to dry the structure. When the house is dry, we can read it and tell you whether it needs help staying that way.

We install and service the equipment that controls humidity: ducted dehumidifiers, air handlers and their drains, and ductless units where a room has no ducts. We aren't a general plumbing or roofing company.